Mona Lisa Mission

Today’s agenda seemed a lot fuller than it actually was. I know that seems crazy since the Louvre really needs several days, but hear me out. Our main goal, like many Louvre goers, was simply to see the Mona Lisa up close and in person.

 

We booked a skip-the-line tour with GetYourGuide so we could essentially pay 3x the face value of the entry ticket, skip the line, and get a little history lesson. I insisted we leave early in case of train mishaps, so after getting off the train we still had 15 minutes before our meeting time.

 

We followed our noses up from the underground and found a café called BO & MIE, stacked with sandwiches, croissants, and pastries. The smell was so inviting, but I stuck with a coffee since I normally don’t eat breakfast. Matt ordered a chocolat maison. The worker asked what size we wanted, and we both said medium. It wasn’t until a couple blocks later that I realized Matt was drinking a hot chocolate… he thought he’d ordered a pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant). When he realized, he tried so hard to play it off like it was intentional. He never got his croissant, but don’t worry — we found him something better later on.

The Tour

Our guide’s name was Jade. There were 11 of us in the group: Matt and me (the only Americans), 2 Brazilians, 2 Germans, and 5 Australians. Somehow I run into Australians on most of my trips; their vacations are long and they almost always hit multiple countries!

 

Jade explained a lot about the history of the museum and how Napoleon Bonaparte acquired (stole) many works from all over and brought them to the Louvre. He brought back so much that it couldn’t all fit — some pieces were left outside in the courtyard, exposed to the elements. When he was defeated in 1815, a lot of the art was returned to its original countries.

 

After the Louvre, we walked around outside and saw the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, a smaller arc also commissioned by Napoleon as a symbol of his military victories. We strolled through the surrounding gardens before grabbing brunch.

Brunch x 2 and Pickpocket Drama

Breakfast was a little split today. We wanted fast casual but couldn’t decide between two spots — so we did both!

 

Stop 1: Oh La La C Bon — a sandwich, pastry, and crêpe shop that was recommended and highly rated. We both got sweet crêpes and ate them standing nearby. As we walked away, an older woman came out of a souvenir shop pointing and yelling something at an American woman passerby who couldn’t understand her. As the American woman passed me, I noticed her backpack was open, so I told her and kept walking. She pulled it around to close it, and right then a teenager picked up her wallet off the ground and called to her to give it back. “Pickpocket! Pickpocket!” he yelled, pointing as he handed her the wallet. The locals immediately joined in to snitch, pointing out the man. That lady got really lucky. I loved how they all came together for justice.

 

Interestingly, the trains here even announce “Beware of pickpockets” at certain stops with a reputation for thefts — Louvre-Rivoli being one of them. I don’t remember pickpocketing being such a thing when I was 22. Either that, or I looked so obviously broke back then that nobody bothered. I also had a strong RBF at 22. I’ve since gone soft.

 

Stop 2: Back at BO & MIE. I got a chorizo-mozzarella croissant, while Matt had a tuna sandwich and strawberry tarte. It seems like everything here is bread-based. I did see three really sad salads too, but honestly they could’ve had cobwebs. Does anyone know what keto is?

Afternoon Adventures

After brunch we headed to Notre Dame and the Panthéon for cheesy tourist photos. The weather was warm and we’d been walking like crazy. I was pretty exhausted, but we still had to walk back to the hotel since no trains went our direction.

 

 

After a short rest and some planning, we headed out again for dinner at Le Marais Restaurant Paris, chosen by Matt (yes, I finally let him help). I snapped a picture of our meaty charcuterie but totally forgot to get one of our entrées.

Eiffel Tower Evening

Since the night was still young, we headed west to admire the Eiffel Tower and take more cheesy tourist photos. We sat in the Trocadéro Gardens and people-watched until the sun went down.

 

We happened to sit near a street food vendor. At first glance, the food looked great. But we stayed long enough to see the assistant touch everything (and everyone) with his bare hands — then use those same hands to restock bread, meat, veggies, and all the fixings. The cook wore gloves, but more for his protection than anyone else’s. I even saw him put his hands in his pockets for money and then dive back into the food. Yikes. Very glad we ate before.

 

 

I’d also like to point out that the vibe at L'Esplanade du Trocadéro (Eiffel Tower Viewpoint area) has totally changed in the last 13 years. I remember being 22 and just chilling there with my classmates, watching the tower sparkle, alongside other chill people; mind you it wasn’t quite peak season at the time but still. It’s now overrun by street vendors all selling the same cheap souvenirs probably made in China, as well as desperate photographers trying to make a quick buck. Oh and lots and lots of tourists. Some of the graffiti in the area said “Tourists go home.” 

On the way back, we spotted a chocolate and ice cream shop still open near our stop — the perfect excuse to spend more money.

Step Count Victory

Final tally: 25,000 steps today — a record for both of us. Pray I don’t wake up limping tomorrow. Good juju will be sent back your way in return!

 

Stay tuned for tomorrow: Versailles! We were alerted today that the train we need is out of service until after we leave. Wish us luck!